In a dazzling celebration of his brand’s 15th anniversary, Simon Porte Jacquemus pulled off one of his most ambitious resort shows yet, this time set against the stunning backdrop of Capri. The event, aptly named “La Casa,” took place at the iconic Casa Malaparte—a vivid, sun-drenched co-ed production that Jacquemus and his team had dubbed “the impossible show.”

Porte Jacquemus has long dreamed of showcasing his designs at this culturally significant location. Casa Malaparte, perched on the vertiginous cliffs of eastern Capri, is not only an architectural marvel but also a piece of cinematic history, immortalized in Jean-Luc Godard’s 1963 classic, Le Mépris. Filming at such a remote site posed significant logistical challenges; the villa is accessible only by boat, and the weather had to be just right. Some equipment had to be helicoptered in to prepare for the 40 guests who would fit on the rooftop terrace. Fortunately, the weather gods smiled upon Jacquemus, and the show proceeded without a hitch.

“There is no beauty without risk!” Porte Jacquemus declared, and the risk paid off spectacularly. The guest list included high-profile names such as Gwyneth Paltrow and Dua Lipa, who were there to witness a collection that marked a creative rite of passage for Jacquemus. “We are evolving into something new. A new kind of sexiness. Realistic but also minimal; almost two-dimensional,” he explained. “As pure as I can be.”

The show was a feast for the eyes, with drones capturing breathtaking footage over the Mediterranean and boats plying the waters far below. Models ascended the long open-air staircase and stepped onto the rooftop, showcasing looks that seamlessly blended the old with the new. The opening look, a creamy-pale tufted bathrobe coat, was a subtle nod to the famous Brigitte Bardot scene from Le Mépris. The collection featured Jacquemus’s recognizable silhouettes: shawl-collared Provencal-derived jackets in vibrant shades of vermillion, yellow, stark black, and white, paired with high-waisted A-line skirts, tailored pants, and bermudas.

The menswear also shone brightly, with tops inspired by sailor’s smocks and asymmetrically-collared shirts, color-coordinated with pleat-front trousers. Accessories played a crucial role, with every look accompanied by a bag—soft fold-over clutches, top-handled bags, and shopping totes in striking hues of turquoise, leaf-green, pink, and yellow.

The show’s thematic depth was further enriched by a nod to Le Mépris, whose plot involves a movie within a movie. Jacquemus’s foray into sinuous draped chiffon and jersey dresses—swooping in the back or slit at the sides to reveal bodysuits—echoed this meta-reference. 

While the brand’s signature skin-showing elements remained, the collection revealed a more sophisticated, mature sensibility. “I wanted it to be surprising, sensual, more ‘woman’,” Jacquemus said.

Perhaps most significant on both the creative and commercial fronts is Jacquemus’s conscious evolution alongside his audience. The designer acknowledged criticism regarding the quality of his past work and expressed his ambition to continually improve. “I’m ambitious to work every day and make things better and better,” he stated. “It’s taken time, and it’s a fight with factories, to work with a new savoir-faire.”

Jacquemus remains committed to offering his designs at relatively accessible prices compared to sky-high luxury brands. The immediate availability of pre-orders for this collection is a testament to that commitment. He noted a positive shift in his customer base, with more people investing significantly in his ready-to-wear pieces. Reflecting on his journey, Jacquemus shared, “I’ve changed a bit. I’m a dad now, and I’m thinking about the next generation, and having constancy. But what I do know is that I will be doing this, the same, for my whole life.”

As Jacquemus celebrates 15 years in the industry, the La Casa show in Capri not only marks a milestone but also sets a new benchmark for what’s to come. Simon Porte Jacquemus’s vision and dedication continue to shape the fashion landscape, promising an exciting future for the brand and its ever-evolving audience.

Here are some of my favorite looks!

Xo, till next time!